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When I tell people I’m going on holiday in January/February they usually say ‘Oooh somewhere warm?’, and I have to reply, nope, I’m off to Bergen in winter. That’s right, one of the few places colder than the U.K right now.
This time last year it was Reykjavik at an icy -10 degrees, this time the pinnacle is set to be -18 in Tromsø.
Am I crazy?
Perhaps. But to quote my favourite Disney Princess, the cold never bothered me anyway.
I will always opt to be too cold than too hot. Being a bit chilly just means blankets, warm drinks, and curling up with a good book to me.
‘Be Prepared’ for Bergen in Winter
(I may challenge myself to see how many Disney quotes I can get in this post now I’ve started writing…)
Bergen in winter is obviously usually chilly, but in 2024 it’s actually unseasonably warm for the time of year. Temperatures have been around 4 degrees and the main issue is the rain not the cold.
Essentially, when travelling to any Scandi/Nordic country in winter you need thermals, a wind & waterproof coat, good boots with a strong grip (also waterproof!) and the ability to just be wet.
I’d also ditch the umbrella as the wind is not going to be its friend. Just put up your hood and accept your fate.
As a little tip though, if you decide to forgo a taxi or Uber and have to walk in the rain with your bags, line the inside with a bin bag. Whilst most luggage is showerproof, in torrential rain some dampness will get through.
I also opt to utilise those airport plastic bags for your liquids to protect my electronics in my handbag. There’s no point in making all the preparations to alleviate one’s anxieties if you ruin it by drowning your devices!
Just remember that everywhere has something to offer regardless of the weather.
Bergen in winter has a kind of beauty all of its own.
‘The flower that blooms in adversity is the most rare and beautiful of all’ and Bergen in winter is beautiful
It’s a pleasant surprise to wake up on Thursday morning to see drizzle instead of a downpour. And there are even patches of blue sky out there.
This is my only full day in Bergen and I am going to make the most of this respite in the rain.
I take a wander over to Bryggen to capture some of the iconic scenes of multicoloured houses and wooden architecture. In more pleasant weather I’d take a walking tour and learn about the history of the place. As it is I am happy to amble aimlessly around, taking cover when necessary.
Bergen in winter (well, anytime really!) will be wet, but it is still beautiful.
The UNESCO heritage site is quaint and has some cute shops to explore. I stumble upon the Christmas shop of course (I swear I didn’t even google if there is one here!) and get my Norway decoration on day one!
There are signs up explaining the restoration process and why Bryggen is important to Bergen’s history.
It would be a lovely place to come back to in the summer and learn more!
Plus I’d love to have a fish loving friend with me to explore the market next time. I definitely want to eat a fancy meal in the sushi restaurant attached to the market. I didn’t go in and kind of wish I had, but didn’t want to be that weirdo photographing fish displays and not buying anything! Sometimes my anxiety wins whether I like it or not.
After an hour of wandering the wharf I decide to take the funicular up the mountain. I can see a big grey cloud on the horizon so figure its now or never to try and get that shot of Bergen from above.
I’m so glad I spontaneously do this.
The views are lovely and the snow at the top is crisp and fresh. There are plenty of walks you can take from the top, but that cloud is getting closer so I decide to have a wander around the Troll Forest then head back down.
Good decision. It’s a veritable hail storm by the time I reach sea level again.
Happily I’m near a burger joint that offers gluten free choices. I always save some eatery options on google maps in advance!
A very enjoyable meal at Holy Cow and a wander around the shopping mall (70% sale in Accessorise means a new hat and scarf are in order!) are great ways to hide from the rain.
I’m thinking about going to Kode Museum (art galley really) but then I get an email.
‘I’m a damsel, I’m in distress, I can handle this.’
Now, as prepared as I can be there is no taking control of the weather. Sadly I don’t have that superpower.
Storm Ingunn has been wrecking havoc across Norway for the past week and sadly is going to impact my travels. But of course it’s better to be safe and as it stands, missing the first two days of my cruise is a minor inconvenience. Especially if you compare my voyage to what others have endured this week.
The email that comes through announces my ship will not be sailing to Bergen at all, and we are to meet it in Trondheim. Hotels and Flights will be arranged and compensation available.
More information will be made available as soon as possible.
With that limited statement I decide to head to the Vinmonopolet (basically the wine shop!) and get a bottle to red to keep me company this evening.
As it seems I’ll have extra time in Bergen I don’t want to do everything today or I’ll be bored tomorrow!
‘Sometimes you try your hardest, but things don’t work out the way you want them to’
This was at about midday on Thursday and I had heard nothing else when it came time to leave my Airbnb at 11am Friday.
I’m quite proud of how I’m handling the situation to be honest.
A large part of that is due to having the support of Fusion Holidays. I know regardless of what happens they are on hand to help me. They’ve even managed to get me more information than I could get directly from Hurtigruten (understandable as they just have me to deal with! Hurtigruten must be having a logistical nightmare!)
So with no confirmation on where to go today I just made my way to the port in the drizzle to see if there is anyone from Hurtigruten there.
There is not.
There are however lockers available for 90NOK so at least I don’t need to drag my suitcase around whilst I figure out what’s going on.
With no real plan I wander towards the centre of Bergen and end up in a McDonalds of all places. It’s dry, has WiFi, and they don’t care how long I sit there with a single coffee.
Whilst I sit here and write my travel agents manage to confirm the hotel I need to get to. They also tell me to get a taxi and it will be reimbursed. Check in is at 3pm. So I commit to hiding from the rain and waiting to head to a hotel for the night. Possibly two nights, I’ll find out when I get there I guess!
Hopefully we will fly to Trondheim tomorrow and get extra time there. If not, I guess I’ll have plenty of time to read my book and write some more!
Gluten free Maccas is a thing in Norway happily! I indulge in my traditional travel Double Quarter Pounder with Cheese, and contemplate going to Kode today.
‘That might sound boring, but I think the boring stuff is the stuff I remember the most’
It’s really raining now though. The Kode is a five minute walk away and I’ll be drenched by the time I get there.
If it were free maybe I’d have made a different choice, but in all honesty I’m just not an Art Gallery person. What I am is a get into comfy dry clothes and read my book with jazz radio on kind of person.
UPDATE: Just got an email from Hurtigruten! Indeed I’m staying one night at a Bergen hotel with meals provided and travelling to Trondheim on a charter flight tomorrow. Huzzah!
So I walk back to the cruise port to retrieve my bag, get an Uber and take a chance on checking into the hotel early.
Which I can, I do, and here I am. Snug in my lounge wear with a cup of tea, the radio on finishing up this post.
I even get a free glass of wine with dinner later so there’s nothing to do but relax and enjoy the peace.
I’ve got my fingers crossed for the rest of the voyage. Hopefully the storm will ease and from reports there are clear skies forcast when we’re due to be in the Arctic.
I’ll take all the choppy seas and altered arrangements if I get to see that aurora!
‘Venture outside your comfort zone. The rewards are worth it’